Off to Cirebon
10:25 PM
Hey guys!
On this post I want to share with you my trip to Cirebon, West Java. It’s a famous batik town almost at the border of West and Central Java. I have travelled to Cirebon before about eight years ago so I was excited to see how the town has evolved. I travelled with my mum and her friends. It was very awkward but I was there for the destination, not much for the company.
Also, for the first time in my life, I rode an intercity train! I’m quite familiar with Jakarta’s Commuter Line but had never used train for long journeys. People had told me that long haul train journey is quite enjoyable — and it is. We hopped on the Cirebon Express (real fancy — like Hogwarts Express minus the compartment and the destination) from Stasiun Gambir at 6 am sharp. I’m quite impressed by the punctuality — but I suppose as train rides rely on precise timing, it is a very common and mandatory practice. It took about 3 hours and ten minutes to reach Cirebon as the final destination. I sat next to my mum’s friend — didn’t talk much; scrolling on my feed, listening to Taylor Swift on repeat; daydreaming. It would be extra fun with friends (taking a mental note).
Upon arrival, we were picked up by a rented mini bus and off we go to our first destination!
First
As we didn’t have proper breakfast, (I woke up at 4 am, ordered a bitter tea at Starbucks and said my name was Ana) we went to Cirebon’s most sowed after dish, Nasi Jamblang. You can find many places to eat this dish in town but we went to Nasi Jamblang Pelabuhan — right next to the harbour front. It wasn’t fancy — but people come anyway.
Here’s the thing about Indonesian dish. It’s almost always served with rice and each district claimed their own version of rice plus something. Nasi Jamblang is the simple, plain, typical, Indonesia breakfast combo: rice with lauk. What sets it apart is the fact that it is served on a daun jati. Quick Googling reveals jati is translated into teak tree, a very sturdy wood material found mostly in South East Asia. There are an abundant amount of these trees in Cirebon, as I noticed throughout the journey. I was honestly expected that maybe the rice was cooked inside the leaf or steamed with it. However, it was just rice on a leaf. What’s so special about rice on a leaf? Well, the lauk is the special component, particularly in this place: you can take as many as you can devour — in other words it’s self serviced! You can take some tofu or tempe, eggs, pepes, perkedel, you name it — but taking more means paying more; but that’s okay! My plate cost 12,000 IDR which for me is quite affordable.
Now, do you have to try eating Nasi Jamblang? Of course!
Second
One of my mum’s friend was from Cirebon so she knows the way around — and the hidden (food) gems of this town. One of them is Kue Tapel, tucked inside a small alleyway in Pagongan, Cirebon. Well, I was told that it was a mixture of rice flour, shredded coconut and bananas. They were still traditionally made — on a wood fired pan made by a third generation maker. It tasted just like the ingredients (well, duh). Honestly, it was quite okay but unless you’re an avid banana lover, I’d give this a pass — I was certainly not a banana fan.
Third
The driver took us a shell craft factory of CV Multi Dimensi. At first I was a bit doubtful but it was so beautiful. We entered into a showroom showcasing the works — from tables to preacher’s stand (what?) made out of or partially made out of shells! It was pretty — it was amazing to see how something that sometimes we take for granted is extremely valuable in the hands of a talented craftsman. The section that caught my eye? The jewellery section. I took home this very pretty dreamcatcher (low on budget, as you can guess). I will bring this to my next home. If your driver happens to know this place, it’s not bad to pay this factory a visit.
Fourth
Now we’ve come to the main attraction - batik. The area famous for their batik is called Trusmi, just a few kilos out of the town. I love batik and I’ve become even more in love when I had to wear batik every Friday for work. The patterns are beautiful (well, some are beautiful). We didn’t went to the traditional maker but rather the more upscale store called Batik Mahkota. I prefer my batik already in clothes form so I skipped the cloth section. I was specifically looking for a short batik skirts but there weren’t many options — wait, I should invest on a good cloth and a master tailor. Anyway, the store offers a wide range of ready to wear tops of all sizes. I ended up buying a short for 35,000 IDR (you have to admit it is cheap for a short, right?), a scarf for 12,500 IDR and a cute necklace for 10,000 IDR.
If you’re feeling spend-y, you can go the pusat grosir, aptly named Pusat Grosir Trusmi. Think the Balinese Krishna shops but in Cirebon. They have everything — from dresses to night gowns, snacks and bags. Their prices vary so you can choose according to your budget.
To be frank I feel a bit sad — I can’t help but wonder if the people who work on these items were paid fairly. Some of the items were so cheap. I hope all labours are paid enough to live a happy life.
Fifth
Lunch time and we went for another Cirebon favorite: Empal Gentong. There are two versions of this; with coconut milk (Empal Gentong) and without coconut milk (Empal Asam). Both are soup with chunks of beef. We had our lunch at Empal Gentong H. Apud, not far from the Trusmi Batik Central.
I prefer the clear soup without coconut milk. It was more rich in broth and umami. It was a-mazing. Aside from the soup you can order Sate Kambing and a small Tahu Gejrot. It’s part of the whole experience, really. You gotta eat here!
Sixth
Sinta is located at Jalan Lemahwungkuk. However, Sinta is located on a busy market area so beware of parking. Inside, you'll have a wide range of manisan. You name it, they have it! But my favourite is still dried and sugar coated mangoes. Ah, it's good lah.
Seventh
To end the day we had a tour of Keraton Kasepuhan. It was once the home of Syarif Hiddayatulah or Sunan Gunung Jati. We had a lovely guide who showed us around the place. It was large and very interesting to see. He showed us the palace garden where the king would lounge and see his people. The main building is partly closed for visitors but you can see the walls were decorated with, guess what, Dutch porcelain (Royal Delft Blue, perhaps?). I didn't take pictures because my battery ran out but the decorations were interesting to see one by one. There were also a museum housing old artefacts and a massive carriage -- not horse carriage but a cow carriage! In the back of the complex there is this Mighty Well or Sumur Agung which (of course) is sacred and will bring you health or luck. I took plenty to send my journey safely.
The complex is financially helped by a well known cigarette company. But, it's still not enough to pay the workers well. Some of the groundkeepers straightforwardly ask the visitors to give them some money out of sympathy. Not just one but at least five different people. So, be prepared for that. It's really sad to see such a historical place goes uncared for. There's nothing I can do except inviting more people to visit. Maybe one day they can perform a huge refurbishment and revitalise the complex.
Eighth
For dinner we had the most peculiar dish, Mie Koclok. It was thinking on the line of Soto Mie but it was completely different. It looked like porridge, am I right? It was noodles covered with thicken coconut milk and sliced chicken. It was super delicious, the perfect comfort food.
In conclusion, the trip was a jolly good fun, even with these folks. I learned a lot and tried a lot. If you want to quick getaway from Jakarta, Cirebon could be in your itinerary.
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